Baltzola
Baltzona's cave at Dima is one of the most important climbing schools in the world. The beginnings were 12 years ago (1993) when Xavier Lamikiz -a climber from Areatza/Villaro-, set up two routes in the second entry of the cave "Sanson jun San" 7c+ and "Satorzulo" 7c. At the begining, there were only two ways available, but two years later other climbers from Bilbao set up some more of them. Although in a previous visit to the cave they thought it may be not the perfect place for climbing, they decided to try it anyway.
Since 1995, different climbers as Mikel Maeso, Inaqui Marco, Fernando Martinez, Iker Arraitajauregui, Zigor Iturrieta, Inigo Basterra and others have been popping up there and setting up the place. In 1995, Iñigo Basterra was able to set a fully-natural route up, but due to its extreme difficulty this way remained unsucceeded until some years after, when Ricardo Otegi was able to chain it. Ricardo named the way “Iñi Ameriketan”, honoring his routesetter, who was in a three years trip by America. “IÑI AMERIKETAN” WAS THE FIRST 9A DEGREE PROPOSAL IN EUSKADI, later his second chainer Patxi Usobiaga confirmed its degree. Patxi himself opened a way with same starting but turning left, that way is know as “IL DOMANI”, 9A degree personal proposal and with no repetition yet. So, Baltzola counts with the first 9a in Euskadi “Iñi ameriketan” thanks to Ricardo Otegi. Baltzola is, first of all, a PURE DIFFICULTY school, given that 90% out of the routes are considered 8 degree, even some of them are measured 9 degree. Currently, almost thirty 8 degree routes are availabel, plus two 9A-S, and two 9a+ in project. It’s not easy to find this level of difficulty in climbing schools, so that’s the why of the Baltzola’s relevance. Another interesting point is the famous 8-degree routes “WHITE ZOMBIE” 8C, “TAS-TAS” 8C+/9A or “NA-NAI” 8C+ routes can be found at Baltzola.
It was at Baltzola, October 2004, where the japanese climber Yuji Hirayama chained THE FIRST 8C “AT THE FIRSK LOOK” WORLDWIDE, PERFORMING A SPECTACULAR CLIMBING IN SUCH STYLE OF “WHITE ZOMBIE”, route. Then, Baltzola’s name will be remembered in sport climbing world history. Baltzola also counts with one of the most difficult boulder tracks in the world, known as “La travesía de baltzola”, wich crosses a root at barely 2 meters from the floor, and is catalogued as 8b+. This track was discovered and created by Iker Arroitajaúregi, and counts with only five succesful climbs attempts. Josune Bereciartu, the woman who han suceeded in more difficult trials like routes (Bimbaluna 9a/9a+) or boulders (“E la nave va” 8c de travesía), also count in his booket with “La travesía de Baltzola”… Two new ways (8c/c+ for men’s categorie, 8b for women’s) were created specifically for Master Dimarock 2007 aiming for a men’s new world record in case on chaining the way “on sight”. In the event of a women’s on-sight chaining, it would have supposed equaling the current wolrd record. These ways were settled by Mikel Maeso, ‘Piwi’, creator of ‘Nuska’ (8c/c+), and Iñaki Marco, creator of ‘Standa’ (8b). Finally, the competition couldn’t take place due to bad conditions on the cave (excessive humidity) when the competition was scheduled. Now we are looking forward to a better luck for 2008 edition.
